Tuesday, 30 December 2014

The inexplicable beauty of inland Andalusia

This is an article about 'duende', the dominating atmosphere of inland Andalusia. 

Duende, as most of the very best things in life, is inexplicable. 
You can't catch it in words, and you definitely can't explain it to others.
You feel it. 

If you prefer to hear and feel rather than to read on, definitely open this song in YouTube: 'Hijo de la Luna' by Mario Frangoulis. It might be a glimpse into the ancient heart of Andalusia - which still exists today.

For there's Andalusia, it's coasts and gorgeous touristy cities... and there's inland Andalusia: a land of gypsies and farmers, cultural highlights and a stunning history, under a Moorish moon.

It's 2015 and 1492 at the same time. You can walk through modern towns with all the amenities and services of the 21st century, and at the same time feel the way of life of the 19th century. 

How can we foreigners who live in inland Andalusia explain to friends in northern Europe why it's sometimes so heartbreaking to leave Andalusia? Why if you live here for a year and slowly start to feel it rather than to just see it, it's a bond for life? 

It's that heightened sense of emotion, expression and authenticity... the 'duende'.

Slowly, very slowly, it sneaks into our own lives and that makes that Andalusia is not just a place where you've been, but that you carry with you. 

Hemingway felt it, Orson Welles is buried here. Carmen, the cigarette girl is from here, as well as the original Don Juan. Foreigner after foreigner, after first having felt no connection whatsoever with the 'fandango', suddenly says: now I get it! 

The 'route 66' feel of stopping at a Venta (a diner) long a windy road, the sitting at a fireplace in a bar, the wind carrying the voices of people practising the next procession, a youngster playing a 'rumbita' on a Spanish guitar... other people saying 'olé' for loving the twists and turns of the voice... and then obviously that great big and pure love for living, breathing, singing, dancing, tasting, loving...

Olé! for inland Andalusia, that distinct, unique and stunning corner of Europe. 

May you too be so lucky to feel and be carried away one day by its duende! 






Wednesday, 10 December 2014

The 3 Christmas traditions in Andalucia

What do Andalusians do or prepare for at the turn of the year?

1. Go where the Christmas lights are!

They are stunning. The tradition to illuminate the town centres is quite a new one, started by Malaga, and they drew in so many visitors that many towns along the coast followed - and now the pride of the inland villages demands they follow suit.

If southern Spaniards spot a chance to exuberance, they grab it. Many a foreigner is flabbergasted by the elegance and festive feel of the lights. Follow the lights!

(Remarkably enough Andalusians are not big on Christmas itself: it's spent at home, with close relatives, without the tradition of dinners and presents of northern Europe).

2. The lucky grapes of New Year's Eve

Before midnight on December 31st, head for the main plaza. You will be surrounded by many, all waiting for the magical moment.

And when it happens, everyone pulls out grapes.

To be precise, 12 of them.

And at every chime of the clock, you eat one.

According to the tradition that dates back to 1895, and became popular at the beginning of the 20th century, this will lead to a year of prosperity.

Ask an Andalucian friend if you can join him or her, for 'las doce uvas de la suerte' is - as anything else in Andalucía - a social habit, enforcing the unity between friends or in families.

3. The King Cake at Reyes

'Reyes' means Kings. And is the name by which all know Three Kings Day.

Put it in your diary: January 6th is the day of days.

Far bigger than Christmas actually: this is a day no Andalusian can miss.

It's a Must for families to gather, with as highlight the dividing of the King Cake.

Traditionally a small plastic or porcelain baby is hidden in the cake (usually gold, green  or purple, the colours of this holiday).

Whoever finds it in their slice, will enjoy a year of luck and prosperity - and is responsible for making or purchasing the cake of the following year.

We from InlandAndalucia can't send you a cake, but wish you luck and prosperity. May 2015 be a very special year for you and your loved ones.

Merry Christmas everybody!

www.inlandandalucia.com






 
 

Friday, 21 November 2014

Spaniards, prepare for a long life

According to the latest research the average European lives 2 years longer than the average American. 

A baby born in the USA has a life expectancy of 78 years and 7 months, whereas the European baby can hope for 80 years and 4 months. 

This is mainly the average in the axis Ireland-UK-Benelux-Germany. 

In many countries in Eastern Europe it can drop to 77 years... and guess who makes the overall average go up again? 

Yes, Spaniards and Italians, on average looking at 82-83 years. 

Which propels them in the Top 10 of longest living people on the planet (admittedly, still overtaken by people from Andorra and San Marino). 

Now that question... what is the reason?

Out of work and struggling with the economy... but beating the USA, Canada, Norway, Australia, and just about any other typical role model - how do they do it? 

Digits are one thing, but to come up with that one and only answer is almost impossible. 

Most scientists point to the Mediterranean diet. It's heavy on fruit, salads, fresh fish and olives, for cooking olive oil is used instead of butter - and Spain also has so much agriculture that even the food on the supermarket shelves can come straight from the land. (As opposed to the bags of lettuce in the UK often coming from Kenya). 

Others assume it's related to more space and the fresher air. The air in southern Spain is said to be the healthiest of Europe - and do not forget that even air contains vitamins. 

More space and lower stress levels are also said to be contributors. 

Arguably the answer lies in a combination of many elements. 

If there's one thing humans and societies all try to achieve, it's a forever higher life expectancy...  so Spain must be doing something incredibly right.

Monday, 17 November 2014

Ski Season has started in the Sierra Nevada

Skiing in the morning and being on the beach in the afternoon: an unlikely luxury?
 
Once again, not so for Andalucía! Here it's only a 2 hour drive from beach to skiing runs.
 
Admittedly, only some 2 months a year: the typical ski season lasts from somewhere-in-November through to somewhere-in-February.
 
But sometimes it goes on until early May, at which point you can really expect very long, sunny days of skiing.
 
(But why combine skiing with beach, if you've got the superb city of Granada or the world renowned Alhambra at only 20 kms?). 
 
Today we are at the start of the season, so the reservation departments at all resorts in the Sierra Nevada are working overtime. It is the most southerly ski resort of Europe, and thus one catering to all aficionados of ski and snowboarding of southern Spain and Portugal. If you intend to stay overnight, make sure to make your hotel booking well in advance and as soon as you can!
 
Sierra Nevada means 'snowy mountain range' and snowy it is. The highest summit is the one of the Mulhacén mountain (3481 mts) and the highest ski lift goes to just below Veleta (at 3398 mts).
 
In case you hesitate, here are 2 handy links:
Anyone living in Andalucía, should have tried this at least once... skiing in the morning, après-ski in the afternoon.
 
Have fun!
 
 

Monday, 10 November 2014

Game of Thrones filmed in Andalusia

'Game of Thrones' filmed in Andalusia?

Yes! Producers at HBO have confirmed it: America's most popular TV series is coming to our gorgeous region.
 
To us who live here it's no surprise. Where to best transmit a mythical, imaginary land than in mythical Al-Andalus?
 
The shooting is said to start still this 2014. Parts of the TV series will be shot in the province of Seville, with the Alcazar in Seville city as main contender - but the town of Osuna will see most swordsmen and dragons.
 
This sun drenched hilltop town, amidst olive groves east of Seville, is well known for its 16th century courtyard mansions.
 
But hold your breath. Speculation might go through the roof, the precise locations and dates are a well kept secret.
 
This does not stop many Andalusians being in a frenzy. Iceland, a location of the previous season, saw it's tourism increase by a staggering 20% - mainly because of the huge fan base. One can imagine the inland towns and villages of Andalucía, with their current unemployment rate, looking forward very much to some action - and an increase in tourism.
 
Whether or not anyone will get close to the film sets: proud of Andalusia we will be anyway, anyhow, and anytime.
 
This is our 'tierra' where knowledge spread to the rest of Europe from the university of Cordoba, the land of tiles and food brought in by the Moors, the land of Carmen and Don Juan.
 
Every day is a Game of Thrones.
OK, the settings are.
 
But don't miss that 5th season!